And Small Engine
Maintenance
How to keep them running and out of the shop
Tips from the shop
Whether turning a key, pulling a rope or however you may start your engine, you want it to run, hopefully long enough to finish cutting the lawn, and pray that it will start the next time you are ready to cut again.
In order for that to happen, that little engine needs some TLC, which I have found that most folks never think of, in regard to 'Small Engines' . For that reason alone, being small, they need special care and maintenance.
Air cooled engines should be kept clean as dirt and debris prevent heat dissipation, causing overheating and failure. Wash the unit with a jet nozzle after each or every two or three uses, after allowing it to cool a bit. Clean the cooling fins too. Remove the air shroud if need be, to get to the fins. Fins should be cleaned at least once a season. Let dry before storing in the shed or garage to help prevent rust.
Spark plugs should be changed at regular intervals, as most of these units have only one cylinder to keep it going, so if that plug gets fouled due to bad gasoline, dirt intake or what ever reason, that unit will spit and sputter once running, and not have the power needed to do the job, thereby putting additional strain on the engine and ignition module. Also a fouled plug will sometimes cause a backfire when the engine is killed or when attempting to start.
Before each use, check the oil level. Most 5 HP engines use just 20 ounces of oil. Loss of this lubricant is devastating to a small engine. Low levels of oil cause not only premature wear, but overheating, as the oil also helps to carry away the heat as it moves through the system. So a quick check can prevent a lot of headaches. Also, change the oil at regular intervals, as dirty oil will also cause premature wear. An oil change twice a season may be overkill in some cases, but it's a cheap alternative to a trip to the shop. Four changes in a season may be needed for those with larger than average yards. If the oil looks black, it very likely needs a change. Best done with a warm engine.
The air filter is a much neglected part. That little engine moves as much air through its system in one minute as you will breath in a year. It depends on that little filter to keep dirty air out of and away from the internal parts. That dirt will foul the plug, cause piston an cylinder wear, valve stem and guide wear and eventually shut down the engine. A plugged or dirty filter will also cause the engine to run rich, creating fouled plugs and carbon buildup in the valves and cylinder area. Get a new filter if yours uses a paper type filter. If a sponge type, wash with soap and water, dry and oil the filter lightly. Don't saturate it with oil. Just a light film to help trap fine dust particles is enough. Be sure to clean the filter holder too.
Fuel. Another little thought about item. It should be fresh. It's got to be clean. Use a good grade of unleaded, alcohol free fuel, unless the manufacturer states otherwise. Use a good clean container. Just a little dirt in the carburetor will plug ports and stop the engine cold. Keep the container capped so a breeze doesn't blow debris into it, or tiny insects fly into it. I have actually found a gnat in a carburetor bowl. Try to use the plastic fuel cans (store them out of direct sunlight) as metal cans tend to condensate moisture, which will find its' way to the carburetor. Clean any dirt or clippings away from the gas cap before removing. By the way, that applies to the oil cap when checking the oil.
Protect
your investment.
After your season is over and you are ready to put that mower
away for the winter, or even a couple of months, drain the gas
from the tank or let the engine run it dry. The gas will go stale
in a short time, and if left in a carburetor, will form a
varnish like film in the tiny ports, clogging them. Store with
fresh oil so that dirt and debris in old dirty oil doesn't form a
sediment in the sump. Squirt some 30 weight oil (tblsp) into the
cylinder and crank the engine to distribute to prevent it from
seizing. These storage habits will assure a quick startup when
the season begins or you are ready to use the unit again.
Two
Cycle Trimmers, saws
and blower engines require the same cleaning and filter care as
the big four cycle engines. One critical thing about them is
proper oil and fuel mix. Use a good grade of 2 cycle oil and mix
per instructions in the manual. For most home use, do not mix
more than one gallon at a time, as the mix will go bad within a
month or so. Nearly all 2 cycle equipment has a very fine filter
in the tank, which prevents most anything from getting to the
carburetor, but that filter can get plugged quick with dirty
fuel. Unless you know what you're doing, do not try to adjust the
carburetor settings from the factory. Improper settings will
ruin the engine. Upon storage, drain
all fuel from the tank, put a little 2 cycle oil in the tank and
start the engine again and let it draw the oil into the
carburetor. The mixed fuel
is quick to gum up the tiny moving parts in the carburetor.
Straight 2 cycle oil in the carburetor will keep gaskets
flexible. The engine may be a little harder to start next season,
but it's cheaper than a overhaul on the carburetor.
If you do need to make a trip to the shop, tell the mechanic, or whoever may write the ticket, the exact problem you are having, giving as much detail as possible. The more the mechanic knows of the problem, the quicker it can be corrected. If the mechanic has to discover what your complaint is, the longer it will take for repairs. "It just quit", is a common complaint, but I always ask, "How long was it running before it quit?" or "What were you doing when it quit?" The more you can tell the shop, the lower your bill will be, in most cases.